The Honest Pour with John Lenart

When you think about beverages from Canada you probably think about beer and ice wine. Well, if you look around, you can find some world class wines. The region responsible for producing many of these wines is Ontario. Norman Hardie is just one of the wine makers producing outstanding wine here. After making wine in Burgundy, New Zealand, South Africa, and California Hardie found that the type of soil that made the wines he loves most is a combination of clay and limestone. When he found the perfect site on a hillside in Prince Edward County in 2003 he set off on his own, planting cool climate varieties there. Today, Hardie’s wines stay true to his vision; low intervention, low alcohol, high minerality, and expressing a true sense of place.

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Norman Hardie, Owner and Wine Maker, Norman Hardie Winery

2013 Norman Hardie Niagara Chardonnay

Bright yellow with a touch green. Impressively youthful with a wine of this age. Nose of apple and stone fruit. Good structure and pronounced limestone minerality on the palate.  Linear, bright acidity and highly complex.

SRP:  $32

 2014 Norman Hardie County Chardonnay

A somewhat perfumed nose for chardonnay with a good minerality. Great balance and weight.Citrus notes combine with green apple on the palate. Just a hint of oak spice balance notes of honey, mouthwatering acidity all ending in a complex and long finish.

SRP:  $32

 2015 Norman Hardie Pinot Noir

Delicate and pretty color. This wine has fresh red berries muskiness on the nose. All of this comes through on the palate combing with minerality, and lovely acidity combining to make a wonderfully elegant and balanced wine. 11.9 ABV!

SRP:  $32

If you’re familiar at all with trebbiano, you’re almost certainly thinking of trebbiano Toscano, which is a high yielding grape that often produces mundane wines. But not all trebbianos are created equally. 350 meters above the town of Cugnoli in Abruzzo, Riccardo Tiberio found a very old plot of trebbiano d’Abruzzese, which, despite it’s name, is neither the same grape as trebbiano Toscano, nor is it common in Abruzzo.

​In the year 2000 Riccardo purchased a small eight hectare plot of 60 year old trebbiano d’Abruzzo and carefully nurtured and replanted it. At the same time he expanded the site and included plantings of other indigenous varieties until he had a 31 hectare estate.

In 2008 he handed over the growing and wine making to his son Antonio and daughter Cristiana. I sat down with Cristiana to talk about trebbiano d’Abruzzo and the importance of clonal selection and indigenous grape varieties.

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John Lenart with Cristiana Tiberio, Wine Maker, Tiberio

2016 Tiberio Trebbiano d’Abruzzo

Yellow with tinges of green in color. Aromas of stone fruit, flowers, fennel and a hint of saline minerality end with a bit of fresh herbal notes. Flavors of green apple, pear, beeswax are balanced by elegant minerality and crisp, mouthwatering acidity. A lovely, unique wine.

SRP:  $20

2016 Tiberio Pecorino

Quite herbal on the nose. Flavors of delicate peach, under ripe fig, and melon. The rich texture is balanced nicely by fresh acidity.

SRP:  $20

2016 Tiberio Cerasuolo

Vibrant cherry color. On the nose aromas of cherry and under ripe strawberry. Flavors of sour cherry, rhubarb, cranberry, and pomegranate. Silky tannins and bright acidity make this a slightly more serious rosé that can pair with richer foods. Great for barbecue.

SRP:  $20

2014 Tiberio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Bright ruby in color. Nose of red fruit, with a touch of smokiness. Flavors of light, fresh red berries and subtle blood orange notes are backed up by spectacular minerality, vibrant acidity, and silky, elegant tannins.

SRP: $20

2014 Tiberio Colle Volta, Single Vineyard Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Very pretty delicate ruby color. Beautiful floral notes accented by restrained minerality. Flavors of sour cherry, cedar, sage, and hints of doughnut peach. Super silky tannins and vibrant acidity  make this wine something to search out. Not made in every vintage.

SRP:  $55

The wines of Sicily get more exciting by the vintage. In the past few decades the fiercely independent Italian island on the Mediterranean has transformed from a bulk wine growing region to one producing many outstanding wines of distinction.  One of the best things about Sicilian wines is that they offer an amazing value and will rarely break the bank.  Such is the case with Cusumano, a group of brothers who invested heavily in creating high quality vineyards around Sicily. Taking their time, they eventually started making a variety of outstanding wines.

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Diego Cusumano Photo Credit Cindy Rynning grape-experiences.com

2016 Cusumano Nero D’Avola

Kind of like a Bruno Mars song, poppy, fun, has wide appeal and a bit of an adult side. Bright ruby red color. Bold aroma of cherries followed by notes of violets, spice, and earth. Flavors of black plum, and blueberries are backed by hints of tobacco, cocoa, nice acidity and round tannins. The unique glass closure will have your guests talking. A solid value.

SRP:  $10

2014 Cusumano Noa

This blend of Nero d’Avola, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon shows that Cusumano is about a whole lot more than value wines. A big wine at 15% abv, this wine shows rich aromas of blueberry jam, and purple flowers. This is quite full bodied for Nero d’Avola, but it’s getting serious backbone from merlot and body from the cabernet sauvignon.  Flavors of fresh dark berries are balanced by moderate acidity and fine tannins. Complex and enjoyable, Drink now through five years.

SRP:  $35

Argentina is the worlds fifth largest producer of wine. Known primarily for Bordeaux varieties, the wines of Argentina pair wonderfully its meat driven cuisine. Patricia Ortiz is the president and owner of Tapiz, Zolo and Wapisa in Argentina, who is dedicated to making wines of distinction that express not only the unique terroir from a variety of growing regions around Argentina, but is also producing wines of outstanding quality and value.

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Patricia Ortiz, President and Owner, Tapiz, Zolo and Wapisa

NV Tapiz Sparkling Torrontes

Pale yellow to a touch green in color. Aromas of white flowers, citrus and a touch of salinty.  Nice tropical fruit flavors finishing off with a balanced savory note.

SRP: $21

2016 Wapisa, Sauvignon Blanc, Coastal Patigonia

Pretty aroma of citrus, herbs and a hint of ginger. Bright acidity is balanced by a nice weight of fruit on the palate.  Pleasant, balanced, and delicious.

SRP: $15

2011 Tapiz, Black Tears, Malbec

Deep purple in color. Wonderfully spiced nose with great earthiness, combined with beautifully balanced aroma of blackberries. Grippy youthful tannin and bright acid balance out wonderful g=fruit flavors of blackberry and black plum. Gorgeous structure will help this wine age gracefully got the next 10 years or more.

SPR:  $48

2012, Tapiz ‘Las Notas de Jean Claude’, Merlot

Elegant aromas of toasted oak and deep dark berries with hints of coffee and earth. Stunning weight and complex mouthfeel tell you right away that this wine is a classic. Deep dark cherry and blackberry flavors are backed by assertive tannin and mouth watering acidity. This wine screams for food, steak in particular. Amazing structure will let this wine age beautifully for 10 or more years.

SRP:  $120

Over the past few years California wines often go to one of two extremes. They tend to either be sweet, high alcohol jam bombs that meet the likes of a few well regarded and powerful wine critics, or they tend toward the reactionary “new” school style of being intentionally low in alcohol, lean and under-ripe. Josh Phelps, a native of Napa Valley and son of a well regarded winemaker, is a millennial winemaker with a new brand called Grounded Wine Co. who is marching to his own beat. The initial release from Grounded Wine Co., a Bordeaux blend called Steady State is a truly balanced beauty. Phelps plans other new releases from growing regions in Washington State as well as Paso Robles which will be priced to be accessible to younger wine drinkers. But don’t let a low priced wine from a young winemaker fool you. If  the wines to come from Grounded Wine Co . are as good as Phelps’ inaugural  release, this is a guy you’ll want to follow.

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2015 Grounded Wine Co., Steady State, Bordeaux Blend

This deep ruby wine is a blend of 73% cabernet sauvignon, 8% malbec, 7% cabernet franc, 6% merlot, 6% petit verdot grown in some of Napa Valley’s most priced appellations. Great Napa fruitiness with a nod to the earthiness of Bordeaux. Flavors of black and red fruit are kept in check by earthy notes and highlights of cocoa, espresso, and pleasant minerality. Youthful grippy tannins and mouthwatering acidity will help this beautifully balanced wine age gracefully for the next 5 to 10 years.

SRP: $65

While working with some of Napa Valley’s most influential wine producers in some of the best vineyard sites in all of California, Andy Erickson and his wife Annie Favia started a small project in their garage. That single barrel blossomed over the years to what has become Favia. Erickson and Favia are now producing outstanding wines from premium California growing sites in their small winery located on their historic Coombsville ranch. While these wines are hard to find, due to small production, and are on the pricier side, you can be sure that they are absolutely outstanding wines which showcase the best of the vineyards which they are grown.

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2014 Favia Cerro Sur

This Cabernet Franc is grown high in the Vaca Mountains east of Napa. It’s expressive nose boasts lavender, cherry and plum. The body is beautifully balanced with silky tannins and mouthwatering acidity showing flavors of cherry, cocoa, lavender and cinnamon. A stunning wine that will improve with age for the next 10 to 15 years.

SRP:  $175

2014 Favia Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon

The somewhat shy nose of this deep purple wine elegantly reveals notes of pencil lead, licorice and dark berries. On the palate flavors of blackberries and black cherry are balanced by cigar box, chocolate and some savory notes. This wine will mature and continue to improve for decades.

SRP:  $175

Randy Snowden’s parents purchased what is today The Snowden Ranch in 1955. The 160 acre property lies on the eastern slopes of Napa Valley looking down at Rutherford and St. Helena. This unique site isn’t part of either the St. Helena or Rutherford appellation, yet it produces fruit that shows some distinctive characteristics of both St. Helena and Rutherford.

Everyone knows Napa wine isn’t cheap. With land costs that can approach a million dollars per acre, how could it be? Yet, while many Napa wines work their way well into the 3 figure price points relative value still exists. Perhaps there’s no greater example of value from Napa than Snowden Vineyard wines.

A testament to the quality of fruit grown here is the list of world class wineries that, prior to the launch of the Snowden label, purchased their fruit; Silver Oak Wine Cellars, Frank Family Vineyard, David Ramey, Viader, and Caymus Vineyards.

I sat down with Randy Snowden to talk about the history of the site, look at the family’s wine making philosophy and of course to taste some delicious wine.

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Randy (left) and Scott Snowden (Right), Owners, Snowden Vineyards

2014, Snowden Vineyards “The Ranch” Cabernet Sauvignon

Harmonious nose showing blueberry, violet and a hint of dusty minerality. Gorgeously integrated flavors of blueberry, leather, lavender and a dustiness. Silky tannis and balanced acid lead to a long complex finish. An amazing value from Napa.

SRP:  $50

2014, Snowden Vineyards “Brothers Vineayard” Cabernet Sauvignon

Very floral nose highlighted with fresh blueberry aromas. Amazing texture. This wine is all about finesse. Bright acidity, balanced fruit, and silky tannins integrated throughout finishing with a distinct spiciness. Quality that compares to Napa wines at three or four times the price.

SRP:  $80

2008, Snowden Vineyards “Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon

A library release this wine is elegance in a glass. A touch restrained, revealing itself over time. Typical of a cool vintage the fruit is a bit lighter in character allowing this wine to be pretty without being showy. Flavors of red berries, are backed with minerality, mushroom notes, cigar box and baking spices. Classic mature Napa Cab!

SRP:  $80 (A STEAL!)

Sherry took me a long time to get to know. My friend, sherry guru Elizabeth Mendez, tried to show me the light for years. Somehow I just couldn’t see it. But finally, on a trip to Spain, hosted by González Byass, maker of Tio Pepe fino sherry, I was able to put context to the ethereal fortified wine of Jerez. It happened while eating tapas, a simple grilled shrimp on a skewer, and sipping Tio Pepe sherry, that it all came together.

The flavors of the food and wine danced together in a harmoniousness tango of flavor. I’ve been a slave to sherry’s siren song ever since.

Of course, visiting the González Byass Bodega in Jerez and tasting with Master Blender, sherry legend Antonio Flores didn’t hurt. It was this trip that linked me forever with not only sherry, but with the wines of González Byass.

When I got the opportunity to sit down with Victoria González-Gordon, International Marketing Manager of González Byass, I jumped at the chance. The business has been in her family for five generations. When I found out we’d be tasting the extraordinary sherry of the “Palmas Range” of  González Byass I was even more excited. These extremely rare wines are hand selected by Flores and released just once per year.

Throughout each year Flores samples from barrels in various Solera in the Bodega and selects the very finest for the Palmas Range.

The four Palmas sherries are:

Una Palmas, only three casks are made with an average age of six years.

Dos Palmas, two casks with an average age of eight years

Tres Palmas, one cask with an average age of ten years.

Cuatro Palmas, just one fifth of a cask with an average age of 51 years.

You can see why I was excited to sample these wines and talk some sherry basics with the charming Victoria González-Gordon.

Tio Pepe en Rama, Fino

Pale golden color. A quite yeasty nose showing aromas of almond and green apples. A creamy texture gives way to almond flavors, apple, and some lemon zest with a good bit of salinity.  Great acidity. Pair with grilled shellfish. You can thank me later.

SRP: $20

González Byass Una Palmas, Fino

Light golden color. Nose almond and walnut skins with dried stone fruit. A savory wine with complex flavors of nuts, a bit earthy with a sea-like brine and luxurious acidity.

SRP: $25

González Byass Dos Palmas, Fino

Medium gold color. A salty approach leads to aromas of green olives and marzipan. Flavors of dried apple and almonds dominate finishing with a distinct salinity and bright acid. Serve with roasted fish or wild game.

SRP: $50

González Byass Cuatro Palmas, Amontillado

Elegance. Stunning and classic. Words fail me in describing this amazing wine, but I will try, certainly I won’t do it justice. Aromas of cedar, spice box, salt and a touch of cigar smoke. Flavors of dried fig, orange zest, and nuts, yet still a lively, dare I say young complexion. Not bad for 51 years on average. If you  are interested in sherry, seek out this classic. It will be worth your search.

SRP: $110

Manuel Louzada is a thoughtful well spoken winemaker. A fourth generation winemaker his family’s commitment to quality winemaking has been passed down through the generations and today he maintains that commitment on two continents. Chasing harvests between South America and Europe his wines are distinctive and terroir driven. The wines I tasted in this episode are no longer the current releases but the tasting notes below will give you an idea of the style of wines Louzada makes and what you can expect from the current releases.

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Manuel Louzada Winemaker, Propiedad de Arínzano and Achaval–Ferrer

2008 Propiedad de Arínzano La Casona

Dusty Ruby in color. An earthy nose backed by aromas of fresh blackberry and plum. The velvety texture supports flavors of black currant, plum and blackberry followed by notes of cedar, milk chocolate and cherry cola.

SRP:  $40

2013 Achaval–Ferrer Finca Bella Vista Malbec

Bright Ruby in color this wine shows aromas of blueberry, plum, leather and spices. Flavors of blueberry, cocoa and violet are backed up by silky tannins and bright acidity in this beautifully integrated wine with a long bright finish.

SRP: $140